Hayley in Wanderlust: Buenos Aires

 

They say that when it comes to love, you'll know when you know. If that's the case then I've found 'The One', because Buenos Aires is quite possibly, the city of my dreams.

 

The first few days spent in the city we're the final few days with my darling G lovelies, so on our first night it seemed only fair that we introduced yourselves to the city with a bang. No trip to Buenos Aires is complete without taking in a Tango show. Essentially, Tango is the It Girl of dance. Sultry, sexy and utterly flawless. We paid AR$600 (around £50) for our evening at 'Complejo Tango.' The evening included unlimited wine, a three course meal, a tango lesson, a tango show, unlimited wine and a hotel transfer to and from (did I mention the unlimited wine?) Easily the best money I spent in Buenos Aires, the food was gorgeous (my veggie option actually had a few of the meat eaters wishing they'd chosen it over steak), the tango class was hilarious (I have the rhythmical ability of frog being electrocuted), the show was mesmerising and to top it all off, we practically fell out of the venue and into that evenings bar. Best. Night. Ever.

The next day a walking tour was a struggle, despite the fact that I had a beer to help me push through, and made me grateful I had more time to walk around again and take it all in.
 

Following the groups departure, one of the other 'BA stragglers' and I headed to our new hostel, and spent the next few days exploring.

I think one of the things I love about it here is the way the people fully embrace that their history has not always been a pleasant one, but show unflinching pride in their struggle. Monuments like 'El Obelisco' and the fact that the biggest road in the city is named after their day of independence show that.

 

Buenos Aires is made up of many different neighbourhoods, and each one has it's own characteristics to fall in love with. The brightly coloured streets of La Boca tell a totally different story to the luxurious streets of La Recoleta and Palermo. We were told not stray from the three main streets when in La Boca, so we didn't, but the place never seemed unsafe. Obviously the colourfulness of the place won me over, and surrounded by Tango once again, I swore my new life's ambition is to remain in BA and become a professional Dancer. I'll send you all a post card once I've made it.
It's also worth taking a walk to Plaza de Mayo and seeing Casa Rosada and the balcony from which Evita gave her famous speech. You will have 'Don't Cry For Me Argentina' stuck in your head for the rest of your stay. 

You're welcome.

 

Truly though, this is a city that lives for the night. Nobody eats dinner until at least 9:30pm, bars don't get going until close to midnight and nightclubs are empty until 3am, when everyone starts the party. Don't expect to get in early but do expect to be hangover the next day.

Following our first hostel, we moved to the better known 'Milhouse' hostel. There's actually two of them, and it's easy to see why they have a notorious party reputation across South America. Both hostels have licenced bars and take it in turns hosting that night a party before moving on to the club of choice. Drink promotions means you probably won't remember a whole lot the next day, and with two vodka & speed's (no, not the narcotic, but the Argentinian version of Redbull) for AR$70 (about £5.30) you won't sleep either.

 

Separately, we caught up with a few of the other girls from the G tour who were still in BA and went for drinks in Palermo's Plaza Serrano, yet another part of town that pretty much never sleeps and sort of reminded me of Camden because everything just spilled out on to the pavements. The waitress in the bar recommended we go to a club called Mika, which was within walking distance. Entrance was AR$80 (about £7) and included a free drink. The place was massive and had two dance floors, one room that played Reggaton (my Spanish singing is coming along wonderfully) and another that played a lot of European and American dance music, meaning I was able to sing along in my own language too. Clearly, being able to sing along to the music in a nightclub is of paramount importance to me. 

 

Honestly, I was a little bit heart broken to leave Buenos Aires. The last time I was this sad leaving somewhere, I was moving home from Manchester. I could stay and (attempt to) find myself a little job and head straight to Ecuador in June, the show must go on. Time to throw all my crap back in my back into my backpack (which, btw, I am now bored of. I miss luggage with wheels) and head west to the wine country and then into Chile.

 

-xo  

Hayley in Wanderlust: My G Adventure

 

Waterfall selfie, because obvz.

 

When I first burst into the Covent Garden branch of STA, I had no real idea what I was doing. I was simply a woman with a dream, who was bored of saving and talking about it but had no idea how to make it happen. All I actually wanted was to book flights, what I got was a whole lot more.

 

G Adventures are a Canadian company that run tours all over the world. Mine was called 'In search of Iguazu: Rio to Buenos Aires'. It was a tour that would last 17 days and take me through three countries (although, in true Hayley style, I didn't realise I was going to Uruguay until I'd checked in to my hostel in Rio... Good work). In a nutshell, our route was:

Rio - Ilia Grande - Paraty - Iguazu - Mercedes (Ranch stay) - Montevideo - Colonial - Buenos Aires.

As a first time solo traveller, I liked the idea that my first few weeks would be paid for and organised for me. It was a good way to fall into the pattern of travelling around and gaining the confidence to then be able to go off and do it on my own.



From Rio, our first stop was Ilha Grande, or 'paradise' as I like to call it. The island is largely uninhabited with many of it's secluded bays and beaches only reachable by hiking through the jungle or by boat and THERE ARE NO CARS! Tropical climate, picture perfect beaches AND no cars?! I had to be dragged away! Ilia Grande is home to Brazil's second best beach, ' Lopes Mendes'. You can hike to it or catch a speed boat for 40RS return. I (contrary to popular belief) really wanted to do the hike there, because there's something captivating about the jungle... but I was way too hangover so gave it a miss. I still haven't entirely forgiven myself. The island has a whole host of cute restaurants and boutique shops and a nightclub that jets out into the sea until the early hours too. I'd go back in a heartbeat.



Next stop was Paraty, a colonial town about two hours from Angra (where you catch the ferry to Ilia Grande). It's hard not to instantly fall for Party's charm. It's cobbled streets and prettily painted colonial houses are hard not to love, plus Caçhaca originated here- I was instantly a fan. Highlights include Thai Brazil, which is still hands down the best meal I've eaten since being away and Arte Caçhaca, a bar that resembles the garden of a student house. Littered with plastic chairs and tables and few beaten up sofas, the bar offered the most incredible array of Calpis (including one with nutella) and the owner simply the loveliest guy, remembering us from the night before and giving us a plate of free sardines (they weren't really my thing).

 

The two biggest highlights from the tour though, came back to back with a trip to the Iguazu Falls and then a Ranch stay in Uruguay.

I don't think I'll ever see anything as awe-inspiring and beautiful as the Iguazu Falls. Our tour included tickets to both sides and I probably can't recommend it enough. You only need a few hours to do the trail on the Brazilian side, which gives you the most amazing view of the falls as a whole. The Argentinian side needs a whole day, but it's absolutely a day well spent. Walking down Devil's Throat allows you stand right on top of the falls, the upper and lower trails give you a greater perspective of just how big the falls are and the boat tour takes you up close and personal with the water. The national park is home hundreds of birds and animals and over 800 species of butterfly. The place is kind of impressive.

 

Following the falls we made our way to Uruguay where our first stop was a two night stay at a ranch. There was another G group also staying at the same time as us (doing the same tour but starting in Buenos Aires), which gave meal times and the evenings a bit more life... Not that our group needed it. The weather was perfect, and the sun must have gone to my head because I played a game of football (my toes still hurts, it was two weeks ago) plus they had three dogs who pretty much just wanted to play or be cuddled all day. I'll never understand cat people.

 

We then spent two nights in Montevideo, Uruguay's capital and I saw approximately four streets of the city. Our hotel had been upgraded, there was a rooftop pool and it was 25 Degrees. As if in was going anywhere. But the rest of the group hired bikes and went for a tour around the old town which they all told me was beautiful. So far, everything about South America is beautiful, I'm going to have to find another adjective...

 

Colonia is another small colonial town that mirrored Paraty. The cobbled streets and mixture of Portuguese and Spanish style buildings are an ode to the way it was fought over for years. You don't really need more than one night here, but highlights include walking up the old lighthouse and getting a stunning view of the town and of the world's largest river and ice cream from 'El Cali'.

My style of my tour was 'yolo', which meant it was of basic standards, but more often than not felt like so much more. It included all of my travel and accommodation as well as some of meals. Our CEO (Chief Experience Officer) was a guy who clearly loved his job and the continent and the group were something else. Big thank you to all of them for some of the funniest nights, and more horrendous hangovers I've ever had. Looks like I'll be taking a trip to Melbourne at some point in the near future, since I am now friends with a whole army of Australians.
 

The tour ended in Buenos Aires, where I am now staying for about a week... But that's a story all of it's own.

- xo