Hayley in Wanderlust: Salar de Uyuni

One of the main stop on the Gringo Trail (the main route/destinations a lot of travellers through South America take/visit), are of course, the Bolivian Salt Flats.
Honestly, before I started planning and researching (and staring enviously at my Facebook feed at those who made it out here before me), I'd sort of forgotten that they were thing. Look, I've never claimed to be any good at geography. Being born with extreme wanderlust doesn't magically warrent you that skill.

Anyway, since I'd been travelling up through Chile, the logical route was for me to enter Bolivia as part of a Salt Flats tour from San Pedro. The place is full of different tour opporaters who all offer you roughly the same package, for roughly the same price. The tours vary in length too, with one option leaving you in Uyuni, and the other bringing you back to San Pedro. I was going to be doing it with two of the girls from my G Adventures tour (as well as one of the girls I has met in Valparaiso and a guy from our hostel) and, to be honest, they did most of the planning.

We booked with a company called 'White and Green' and, admittedly, our tour was slightly more expensive. It meant that we followed a slightly different route and instead of having six passengers and a driver, we had five passanagers, a driver and a tour guide who spoke both English and Spanish. It was definitely a bonus, but since I speak Spanish, I could have easily done one of the cheaper tours and been fine. Not complaining though, it really was amazing going to different spots from all the other tours and the peacefulness of it all was unreal.

On day one, we set off for the Chilean/Bolivian boarded (where I almost froze to death, it's over 4000m above sea level). Once we'd cleared immigration, we headed down to a thermal spring, which was pretty interesting. I'd never been in one before, and after the cold start to the day, it felt amazing to step into nature's bath. The rest of the day was spent visiting three massive lagoons, all of different colours, thanks to the various elements in the earth. My favourite was the 'Coloured Lagoon' as the water looked pink and attracted thousands of flamingos. So cool, flamingos are my spirit animal.



Day Two started with a visit to Rock Valley, which involved climbing up and around various different rock formations. This included rocks that looked like a camel, the World Cup and entire city. From here we headed to Laguna Mysteriosa, which was absolutely unreal. Hidden, thousands of metres above sea level, we had to cross a field/marshland filled with grazing Llamas and scramble across more rocks to get to it, but it was completely worth it. With water black like ink, and reeds taller than me, it was easy to see why they called it 'Mysterious Lagoon' - it was just so beautiful. Following lunch, we visited a canyon that, yet again, tested my stomach for heights, but gave awesome views of the tiny stream that ran through the bottom of it. After this, it was a three hour drove through the national park to reach our 'Salt Hotel' on the edge of the Salt Flats for the night.

Our final day started bright and early, as we were up and on the move by 5:30am to make it to Cactus Island, on the Salt Flats, in time for sunrise. I'll be honest, it was freezing and I really, really, really haven't packed for the cold weather. Had it not been for a jumper given to me by one of the girls I'd met in Cordoba, I would have seriously screwed. Waiting for the sun to come up in the cold was agonising, and I barely stuck it out. The two things I hate to feel the most are cold and hungry, and by sunrise, I was both. Still, it was bloody spectacular and one of the most gorgeous things I've ever seen, so yes, it was worth almost dying for. Following breakfast we spent an hour or so out on the Salt Flats taking a whole range of touristy and perfect photos (although, our driver kept trying to have artistic direction of the pictures, which I hated). Then it was time to go to our final stop, the train cemetery, which lay on the outskirts of the town of Uyuni. The train cemetery was creepy, but so cool and was basically a big kids playground, as all the trains were there to be climbed and explored.

On top of seeing some pretty amazing things, it has to be said that my group were brilliant (and yes ok, I'd met them all before we jumped in a jeep together for three days), as were our guide and driver. The food prepared each day was delicious and they accommodated a vegetarian and a vegan with absolute ease, something I had been told wouldn't be possible in Bolivia!

Yet another beautiful highlight to this continuously amazing trip.

-xo

Hayley in Wanderlust: La Serena and San Pedro de Atacama

 

From Valparaiso, I left the fab group I'd met there behind, and headed further up the Chilean coast for a couple of quiet days in La Serena.

My hostel, 'El Arbol' was basically hotel, and home to the most comfortable beds I'll sleep in all trip. La Serena is a quiet little city, and one of the oldest in Chile, but there's still plenty to do. At the start of the year The New York Times released a list of the top 50 places to visit in 2015, and the Elqui Valley, Chile, was one of them. My geography is absolutely terrible, so when I discovered that it was only an hour or so away from La Serena, I jumped at the chance to visit. Chile has one of the top four skies to stargaze in the world, and it really didn't disappoint. My hostel offered a Observatory tour which  cost CP$16,000 (approx. £17.70) and it was 100% worth the money. We were given a tour by an English speaking astronomer, got to see craters on the moon, Jupiter and clusters of stars that from Earth just look like one. It was SO cool and made me wish I'd had more faith in myself and taken Physics as an A Level.
Besides stargazing, La Serena is home to 29 churches (I saw two), a really beautiful Japanese Garden that's cute to walk around for a couple of hours and the beach. Sadly, the weather resembled London in March (although drier) so sun bathing was off my list... I did go for a run though. Exercise is so much better when you have a beach view!

Next up was an 18 hour night bus to San Pedro de Atacama, which, dare I say it, is possibly one of my top three places so far. The town basically exists for people who want to cross the boarder into Bolivia and it's in the middle of the driest desert on the planet, which means it isn't exactly cheap, but there is so much to do here.
I stayed at my favourite hostel so far, 'La Rural'. Although it didn't offer breakfast, the staff were friendly and helpful and the hammock area was perfect for lying around in the desert sun.

I'd bumped into a girl I'd met in Valparaiso on the bus, and then bumped into one of the girls from the Santiago walking tour at the hostel. I remember when I was in Cordoba and I never thought I was going to find anyone moving in the same direction as me. I'd been on my own, really on my own, for the first time since my G Tour ended and it felt impossible. Turns out, you just have to give it a couple of weeks; sort of like when I started university and never thought I was going to recognise people to say 'hi' to in nightclubs or the supermarket.

One of the most beautiful things I've done so far was a tour of Valley de la Luna. A small group of us from the hostel paid an extra CP$5000 to do a tour with five people, instead of 15-20, so that we could avoid the crowds (who wants hundreds of tourists in the photos?! Yes, I know I am one) and it meant we got to have a cocktail as the sun set beyond the mountains. It was stunning, once the sun had gone down the mountains opposite went the perfect hombre shade of pink to purple, and I found myself oddly nostalgic for the hair I once had. I'd also 85234% recommend the night sand boarding, as its the most fun thing I've done since the boat ride in Iguazu. The light up a sand dune, there's a DJ, you can bring your own booze AND if I didn't die, then chances are anyone can do it. It was bloody hard work carrying a heavy sand board up a sand dune each time, and my calves ached the next day, but it was also hilarious and now I really want to learn to snowboard because j wasn't even that terrible and could totally be the next Sean White!

In San Pedro, I also booked my Salt Flats tour into Bolivia. We went for one of the more expensive options, but it meant we got a tour guide as well as a driver, and went with a company that didn't allow their drivers to drink. Apparently, drink driving on the Salt Flats is a thing and it's a problem.

As always, I'm sad to be leaving. Chile has, for reasons I cant't entirely explain, been my favourite country so far and the idea of living here someday excites me greatly. But for now, it's time to move on and get salty in Bolivia.

-xo

Hayley in Wanderlust: Santiago and Valparaiso

Usually, I'm a fan of taking the night bus. Since South America is so big, the journey's all tend to be at least 8 hours and it saves on paying for a hostel. However, I'd been told to do the journey from Mendoza to Santiago during the day, because the crossing through the Andes was not to be missed. It's advice I'm so glad I listened to. The entire journey is winding roads through the mountains, with the ragged terrain and snowy peaks... Not exactly what I see as I drive to work along the M40, I must admit.

 

Santiago is easily one of the most underrated cities I've ever been to. The place is amazing, with so much to do and see, and because it doesn't have the same pull as Rio or Buenos Aires, it didn't really feel like I was paying capital city prices, which I liked.

 

 

My hostel was very quiet, which I found frustrating as I use hostel to meet people and as some of you will know, I generally like being able to talk to people at all times. To begin with I was worried that I wouldn't be meeting anyone during this leg of my trip. It wouldn't have been an issue so to speak, I just would have driven myself mad having conversations with myself (in my head, and don't look at me like I'm mad, you all do it too). Turns out, I shouldn't have stressed. City walking tours are also great ways to meet other travellers and the one in Santiago is so much fun. Lead by a 'Wally' (of the 'Where's Wally fame.. Also note how you're not met by a 'Waldo', here's looking at you, USA...) there are two tours in Santiago each day.

I took the afternoon tour, which walks you around the main attractions in the city. Our guide was amazing, super knowledgeable and handled our group of 30 like a pro. The tour itself is free, and then you tip at the end (the name is Tours 4 Tips after all). Obviously, you don't have to tip if you don't want to, but the guides are so fantastic you can't help yourself. I did the walking tour in Valparaiso with the same company and it was equally as fab.

 

That evening was a fairly quiet one, although I did try my first ever Pisco based cocktail, which for someone who drinks as much as I so, was pretty special.

Santiago has some of the most beautiful parks I've seen so far, which is yet another reason I loved it so much. In the centre of the city is Santa Lucia, a park created on top of a big rock. It's free to enter, all you have to do is sign up, and walking to the top gives you beautiful views of the city's rooftops from the middle of the action. There was a protest going on whilst I was there, so it was amazing watching hundreds of people swarm the streets from higher up. 'Parque Metropolitana' is one of the largest parks in a city, three times the size of Central Park in New York. It's where you find 'San Cristobol' hill and the statue of the Virgin Mary. I took the funicular up, which cost me CP$1500 (approx. £2) and then decided to walk down. The views from the top are absolutely unreal, and thankfully I was thereon a relatively clear day. Santiago is prone to smog and it can really affect how far you can see if it's a bad day. I thought walking down would be easy, but ended up walking the wrong way and doing a 5k hike to the bottom. It was a blessing though, because walking down I met these two amazing South American women, both in their 70s who live in Brazil and were grovelling together. We chatted the entire way down, which was very good practise for my Spanish (after struggling through my A Level, I'm still so impressed at how well I can actually speak it. Felt like I was never going to get there) and it was just so nice to speak to women from an entirely different generation who seemed so interested in my journey, and so pleased I was taking the time to see the world. I got a slightly different reaction from my Nona...

That evening I met up with a few of the girls from the walking tour and we went for drinks. One nice drink turned into us drinking in a student bar that only served beer or rum (perfect) and ending up in a reggae themed club called 'Jammin'. It was a really, really good night but meant that the next day we headed to Valparaiso severely hungover. I never learn.

Valparaiso (Valpo) stole my heart a little bit, and I ended up staying for six days, when the plan had been to stay for three. I stayed in a hostel called 'Muffin' which was close to bus station and far from everything else, and then at one called 'The Licananty' which was close to the centre of town, but run in organised chaos (or just chaos), I would however, stay at both again. Valpo is a bright, colourful city with street art in every corner. Again, the walking tour with the Wally's here is fantastic and it was fascinating to learn about the city's history, and the meaning behind some of the murals that paint the city's streets. Twice we ate at a resturant called 'El Domino', which is great if you eat meat as it does the best in a local Chilean specialty of a dish containing chips (French fries), fried meat, egg, cheese and fried onion. It was less great if you're a veggie as the only thing on the menu for you was a portion of chips. Please, no one mention how much weight I've gained when I get home, 'rolling back to UK' is my new motto *sigh*.

There's always something happening at night here too, there's a bar called 'El Gatos en la Ventana' (The Cat in the Window), which sells a jug of 'Terremotto' (a Chilean cocktail made with sweet white wine, grenadine, Pisco and pineapple ice cream) for £4 and hosts live bands playing local music. On the Saturday night, we went to a club called 'Metro' (I think...) which was a lot of fun, and gringo friendly. We'd been warned that certain areas might mot be the safest for js after dark, but encountered no problems and danced with the locals all night. Even when it came to going home and I got on the wrong bus and ended up in the next town over, people were more than hap to help me find a taxi and get back to the right place. Admittedly, not my smartest move, and I can't say that I would have been so cool about it had I mot been able to speak Spanish well, but thankfully I got myself home in one piece.
As well as nightlife, Valparaiso's hills are littered with loads of cute cafés and restaurants, that aren't overly expensive, selling delicious food and good drinks. Orange and strawberry juice was my personal favourite.

I could have stayed in Valparaiso. It's big, arty, fun and only a short bus ride from the beach, but sadly, I was starting to run out of time. Mid June, and my flight to Central America was fast approaching, and I needed to get a move on.

Time to head north and hit La Serena and San Pedro de Atacama before entering Bolivia.

- xo

 

Hayley in Wanderlust: Córdoba and Mendoza

I (sadly, and with the mother of all hangovers) left Buenos Aires and headed west to a city called Còrdoba. 

 

It seemed like a logical stop on my way to Mendoza, before heading into Chile, and I'd heard that it was a large student town with lots going on. I figured two nights and three days would be enough time to check the place out.

 

Còrdoba is a really beautiful city, and so obvious it's densely student populated the second you get into the centre. I stayed in a small but friendly hostel, called 'Che Selguaro', which was close to bus station and served pancakes for breakfast. Something I am rapidly learning about backpacking is that the breakfast a hostel serves is of HUGE importance... It's food that you (usually) don't have to pay for! I spent my first day wandering around the city centre, exploring it's main plaza, plethora of shops and beautiful churches.  I get the feeling I will be doing a lot of church and cathedral visits whilst in South America. They're just so detailed and pretty, and I like that each one is different. The following day, I wandered along the canal and generally pottered about. Truth be told, there isn't a lot to do actually within Còrdoba and the excursions were really pricey. If I could have (you gotta be 25) I would have hired a car and driven out to the mountains. There was a group staying at the hostel who did exactly that and they said it was 100% worth it. 

Being a student town, bars and nightclubs are plenty in Còrdoba, so on my last night there a few of us went out to explore the nightlife. In true Argentine style, the clubs were dead at 2am, and filling up nicely by 3. A lot of them offer deals on drinks and entry. We didn't have to pay to get in, and our group got two free beers. The club had a band playing live, which was a lot of fun and broke up the amount of Reggaton being played. 

I woke up the next morning, hungover, having to check out and waiting around for my night bus to Mendoza...

 

 

 

It'll come as no shock that I went to Mendoza. It was pretty much the only place in Aregntina I was determined to visit. Wine makes up approximately 87% of my bloodstream, and it was important I visit one of the world's most important wine regions. 

I stayed at the 'Hostel Lagares', which is beautiful, clean and super well run. It was, however a little bit quiet. A lot of hostels in Mendoza offer free wine hours, and sadly this one didn't, but it was still a very comfortable three nights sleep and money well spent.

I arrived on Saturday at midday, so spent my afternoon exploring the city. Mendoza is home to MASSIVE park, called 'Parque San Martin' which houses a theatre, a zoo, a university campus, a lake, a sports village and a football stadium as well as a golf course. I walked around the place for FOUR hours and still didn't make it to the amphitheater. Oops.

 

On Sunday's, all the wineries are shut, which I didn't realise so I extended my stay for one more night, and had what I can only describe as my ideal Monday instead. I caught the bus from Mendoza to Maipu (AP$22, £1.70 return) and bumped into two of the boys I'd shared a room with in Còrdoba. I'd been ready to spend a Monday drinking wine in my own (I don't have a problem, I swear), so was happy to have people to do the wine tours with. We hired bikes from 'Mr Hugo's' and set off. There are loads of bike hire places around the main road, go in and talk to a couple to see who will give you the most for your money. We visited 'La Bodega Rural' for our first glass, the place had wine barrels you could swim in (SO much better than an actual swimming pool) and the Malbec was delicious. We went to a beer garden for lunch, and then the boys went off to do a tour of a winery whilst I decided to cycle around in the sun and visit a wine bar instead. 

I can't believe I'm already done with being in Argentina and heading into Chile. I've fallen a little bit in love with the place, especially since the air in Mendoza smells of wine, and what isn't there to love about that?

-xo